52 easy pieces
Tuesday, September 6, 2011
Gray Silk/Linen ruched dress lined in silk charmeuse with hand-ruched gray silk chiffon bodice; Wool coat lined in charmeuse silk leopard print; both from my Fall line. Model: Katie Osumi shot at The Surf and Sand Resort
Today lovely Ada at Classiq posted a very kind interview with me about my Fall clothing line. She asked a lot of difficult questions and made me realize that I rarely discuss the process of making my line. So much goes in to it that at the end of the day, it's easier to just write about other things that inspire me and leave the cares of manufacturing behind.
A few months back I was chatting with a woman who told me that I was inspiring her to start her own line because the pieces in my new line were so simple. I choked on my latte and almost fell off the bistro chair. Before I could explain that none of the pieces in my line were simple, some of them had to be re-done several times by amazing patternmakers to get the drape and the fit just right, everything was completely lined in silk, a lot of pieces have hand work--she repeated in a bright and firm voice, "Oh come on, there's not much to them, they're easy patterns!" with a wave of her hand. And well, there was just no point in explaining that the most expensively made garments often look deceptively simple.
What I do know for sure is that there are 52 pattern pieces in the portrait collar jacket above, and the couture sewer who worked on this piece complained a lot during the process. The patternmaker made sure to let me know that when she was making patterns for Yves Saint Laurent, she kept a little notebook where she would log in the hours. She brought it out to show me, "See, 76 hours on this jacket... 120 hours for this dress. There would sometimes be 10 or 12 fittings with a client to get it right, but now ladies don't like to wait." In other words, I had no right to complain that we didn't get it exactly right on the first pass.
The fit was off and because of scheduling, the jacket had to be re-cut/tweaked by another patternmaker I started working with who had worked as the head patternmaker for James Galanos for 30 years. The sewer balked at re-sewing it since she claimed to have spent too many hours making the bound button holes and the silk taffeta collar and the pocket tie details, which were all hand sewn. I could go on, but let's just say that this piece, the core of the line, did not come easy.
If you'd like to read more about my line, check out Ada's interview here.
The fit was off and because of scheduling, the jacket had to be re-cut/tweaked by another patternmaker I started working with who had worked as the head patternmaker for James Galanos for 30 years. The sewer balked at re-sewing it since she claimed to have spent too many hours making the bound button holes and the silk taffeta collar and the pocket tie details, which were all hand sewn. I could go on, but let's just say that this piece, the core of the line, did not come easy.
If you'd like to read more about my line, check out Ada's interview here.
Labels: Classiq
posted by Mary Jo at TrustYourStyle at
Tuesday, September 06, 2011
I'm Mary Jo, a handbag designer living in sunny California. TrustYourStyle is where I share inspiration and connect with other style lovers. Did I mention I celebrate 
39 Comments:
I just saw Your Interview on classiq Blog! And let me tell you You are an Amazing Designer and Beautiful woman!
I love color palette, textures and lines~ very feminine and chic!
I wish you success!
Yelena
GlamThings
You look absolutely stunning! Great outfit post. I've just discovered your blog and love it! Want to follow each other? I always follow back :)
xx
http://couturecaddy.blogspot.com
Absolutely gorgeous pieces, darling MJ!
Love that coat!
xoxox,
CC
I love everything from that first look!
I so remember bound button holes from my days at college and horse hair shoulder pads so i know the work that can go into pieces that are deceptively simple - i also know women like that - bleeuch!! x
http://fashionandfrank.blogspot.com/
i love it when you say you're a designer and people always say how cool it is but no one know how much work and how many hours go into getting a piece done... you're designs are beautiful for sure!
OMG, I'm blusing like there's no tomorrow. I actually never realised that you and "the designer lady" are the same person!!! I'm such a silly silly silly idiot.
You know I've been in love with the light pink coat and pearly grey suit since I first saw them on Sarah Klassen's blog! You are soooooooooo amazing and I'm (yet again) such an idiot.
xxx
Thank you for the interview, Mary Jo. It is a pleasure featuring your beautiful fall line. Oh, and you are so right, the most expensively made garments often look so simple. This simplicity is the most luxurious one. xo
Ada
ps: I knew the model in your campaign wasn't you, lol, but I haven't had time until now to leave a comment on my blog to clarify this little misunderstanding for my readers :)
You look lovely and so lady like! Great photos!
love the gray dress with the blush coat!
xoxo navy & orange
I am glad I wasn't there... I may have slapped the woman.
I see the craftsmanship in your clothing and your impeccable eye for detail.
Can't wait to read the interview!
This is fascinating, read every word. I love reading about the whole process of design and just looking at the beauty of the folds in the grey dress at the top I can see the incredible amount of hours that go into it on all levels. I'm not a designer and don't have a paying job, but the other day a friend was incredulous that I had to spend any time at all on my blog. "Oh It reads like you just write it in five mins" she said. I take it as a compliment (even though it probably wasn't) and encourage everyone I know to start a blog. People have no idea!
You are way too gorgeous. I love your clothes. I love your jewelry. I love your hair. I love your personality. You are such an awesome person!
http://www.glamkittenslitterbox.com/
Twitter: @GlamKitten88
Dear Mary Jo,
In the 80's all girls living in the Mid-West learned to sew in High School.. I was one of them.. I can tell you that to sew well takes so much talent and energy and of course a feeling towards the finished product.. This women has never had to even make a pattern, forget, buying a pattern from the store and making a garment..
What you and other do when you design takes so much focus, when you want to do something really well. To have a dress that looks as well on the inside as the outside is a great deal of labor and love..
xxoo
Melissa
Awesome! I enjoy reading more about the technical aspects to creative work! Lovely colours on the designs in this post - especially the grey / pink combo.
Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful! The first pic is amazing!
hugs and kisses by Mani.
This is a great blog. The details in your pieces shine and the simple aspects are classic and beautiful. Exactly how a woman wants to feel in clothes! Love the insight into the creation process. Those bows are perfect on that blazer.
GTBB,
http://badjoan.blogspot.com
http://cookingjoan.blogspot.com
I love these pieces - they're so elegant and sophisticated they get the double thumbs up!
Lots of love from Sydney,
x Kel
melbourne: the bold and the blackman
absolutely amazing pieces MJ! Loving the first pic..xo
Hello Mary Jo,
Well first off, let me say again just how much I long to purchase one of the pieces from your line. You are very talented and these classic, beautiful pieces would be treasured in my hands—so many perfect for a woman of twenty and sixty. (which is so rare)
Indeed, the construction of quality pieces takes talent, knowledge, time, dedication and persistence. From beginning to end. I have seen it first hand, whether it is a modern, well-planned kitchen, designing the pages of a book, creating a coat.
Some might see a Birkin bag and one from Aldo and believe them to be equal. That is not so, and no doubt not your customer either :)
Now off to read Classiq!
Wishing you a wonderful day...
xoxo, Sarah
Mary Jo I absolutely loved your interview at Adas! Your line is just gorgeous. I would wear any of your pieces in a heartbeat. That black gown is to die for. Oh and next time I'm in Laguna Beach I know where I'm staying. That location is stunning! :) xoxo
Well I think that jacket is gorgeous! And it's probably a complement that you can make hard work look simple :)
xo jess
I guess some people say things w/o thinking or just have no clue! I wouldn't even give that woman's comment a second thought! I think your work is fabulous. It may look effortless because of how beautiful it looks, but I know it is the exact opposite!
The first gray dress is absolutely stunning and the suit is gorgeous as well! Silk lined pieces are hard to come by, it's generally Chanel or St.John that constructs their pieces in that manner! I will definitely check out your line, my mom is a designer also so I have an idea of how long it takes to design and craft a portrait collar jacket. Thank you for stopping by, I am so glad to discover a talented designer like you!
Girlfriend, you are stunning and these pieces are so beyond fantastic! xo
Beautiful shots, this is my first time to your site and I'll definitely be back
xo Leslie
http://lesliechristen.com/
so beautiful :)
by the way I miss Pete's Coffee so much
I lived in Silicon Valley and always went to Pete's Coffee because it was only about two blocks away
now I'm in Korea so I can't get the beans as I would so love to get
maybe I should try some online shopping to see if it's available anywhere!
you're absolutely stunning!
That grey silk dress is gorg!! You look lovely!! :)
xoxo
Antonia
FASHION IMPERATIVE
The most expensively made designs often look so simple but God knows how difficult and time consuming is to create a very simple design.
You are very talented and your work is amazing!! I love all designs!!
The grey suit is perfect!!
xoxoxo
I just love that wool coat, Mary Jo - the color is gorg!
Off to check out the interview now! :)
Don't you just love people like that? they are the same ones who look at Art and say, oh anyone can do that.
Your line is so so beautiful , I love the liquid silver silk dress and the one in the first pic. And...that you have paired the fall line with tights - perfect! Now I just have to find that grey shade, they are lovely.
I would have choked too! I'd it was easy, everyone would do it.
The first pics is so great. It's really a beautiful shot.
Amazing pieces.
Great looks! Gorgeous!
Hearts,
Nicole http://www.vantagepointvintage.com/blog/
congrats on the interview feature! i remember touching and feeling your pieces and the quality made it clear these pieces are everything but simple.
These are such beautiful pieces. I especially like the bow detailing in the second outfit!
Sincerely,
Sabrina
Things that look effortless and "simple" are usually the hardest to make.
Your work is so beautiful, it is obvious that you have put a lot of talent, skill and time into them. Those people who think that's easy - let them try it and see how far they go :-)
Beautiful blog, by the way.
Red
Mary Jo, I so admire what you do. You make a 52-piece pattern look so simple. And I love that all the clothing you design is so classic. Women will be able to wear your outfits for years.
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