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Wednesday, September 10, 2008

fashion week blow out

That's right, NY Fashion Week is in full swing--so if you're in the mood, fasten your seat belt. If not, I'll meet you back here in a few days when the fashion whirlwind has died down a bit...



I'm going to start with what interested me most so far, and that's the debut of Sophie Théallet's Spring 2009 collection. I paid close attention because Théallet worked with Azzedine Alaïa (one of my great inspirations/fashion icons) for a decade and then went on to create Motu Tane, a resort line, with François Nars. Théallet says she isn't interested in making "a big fashion statement," but what she showed was much nicer--pretty, feminine, and wearable.






This dress just has O Magazine written all over it, can't you just see it on Oprah?


Now on to Thankoon. Roses sprouting legs anyone?



All eyes have been on Thakoon Panichgul since Michelle Obama showed up in one of his floral dresses at the Democratic Convention. A number of editors at Fashion Week have also been spotted wearing his prints in the tents and all bets are on this trench to become one of spring's Must-Haves.




On to Derek Lam, who said his Spring collection was part Coco Chanel, part Venice Beach '09. To me, it just looked very laid-back, chic and wearable--American Sportswear at it's best.






Although Narciso Rodriguez's collection was deemed "strong" and "warrior", I actually enjoyed some of his more relaxed silhouettes that employed the banded motif but had a little less of the pointy tailoring that he's so known and loved for.






Neon brights and caftans aren't necessarily my thing, but I've been a fan of Matthew Williamson from way back, simply because I've always thought he knew how to use color and mix bold patterns like nobody's business. What I really admire about Williamson is that unlike other designers, whose collections magically transform season to season only because they "borrow" a mish-mash from the vaults of other fashion greats, I can always pick his clothes out from a lineup. He has a signature, which in this day of fashion is so rare.







Proenza Schouler got their money rite (cash infusion from the Valentino Group) and their collection is lean, mean, and bling...






I wish I could tell you the number of times I've been chided by a friend for not covering Rodarte with more enthusiasm. I'll try and be diplomatic since they are the darlings of the fashion world, but this season's spider web tights and torn up chiffon-chain dresses are not really my cup of tea. My litmus test for fashion is whether I could see myself wearing the clothes--which is why, sadly, I won't be covering Marc Jacobs today. But in all fairness, you would definitely see me in Rodarte's exquisitely tailored pantsuit. On a bold night, perhaps their beautiful paint-streak of a gown.






Before things get too serious, let's consider Betsey Johnson. Her collection is always fun, fun, fun...hip, cool, young, etc. Yay Betsey!






Tory Burch always makes me eat my words. No, she doesn't reinvent the wheel, and yes, she borrows (see her new Coco jacket below, which is extremely literal), but I find myself drawn to her collections anyway because her clothes are cute and wearable--kind of like a grown-up J. Crew (which I'm partial to in casual life).






Fashion as everyone knows, is fickle, and lately Behnaz Sarafpour hasn't been in the spotlight like she used to be. I always take a look at her collection because I like how she does a younger take on all that is lady-like.




I feel the same way about Vivienne Tam for different reasons. This season she did gorgeous peonies with great panache.






Carolina Herrera as always, presents upscale perfection--this season it was all about ruffles.








Catherine Malandrino celebrated ten years of success in the fashion industry with lots of her signature lace and appliques. Her lace print satin gown featuring the Statue of Liberty is sure to be a hit, and of course Malandrino took a bow on the runway in the same flag print dress (to be reissued this season) that elevated her to to fashion fame. Viva L'Americana!






I had to save the biggest surprise for last. Victoria Beckham, formerly known as Posh Spice, has launched a collection of ultra-fitted dresses replete with all sorts of couture finishes--special seams along the derriere and torso to ensure against flat rear ends and busts, rose-gold back zippers "to avoid messing your hair up", and removable grosgrain ribbons lining the waist "for posture". It's very good.







Hoping you enjoyed the latest and greatest from NY Fashion Week. And remember--(not that you need a reminder)--style is all about who you are, not who you wear...



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